There are three semesters a year at Oxford- Michaelmas, Hillary and Trinity. Each is approximately eight weeks long, followed by a six-week long break. For most of my breaks I traveled to other countries in Europe or to other cities in the United Kingdom. I attended Windsor Castle for a Royal Wedding and met the Pope while in Rome, which was a once in a lifetime experience. However, living in the city of Oxford while attending the University was an experience I will never forget, and one that I hope will be matched on my return, even in the middle of a pandemic. Oxford is an exciting city full of historic attractions that blend so well with modern amenities. Many of the buildings date from before the eighteenth century, some are much older, yet they have stood the test of time. The architecture is magnificent, full of gargoyles and spires, towers and domes. Two things I miss, and cannot wait to return to, are the daily cacophony of bells chiming hourly and the spectacular foliage and flowers that designate the change of time and season.
There are so many attractions in the city of Oxford it is hard to select favorites. Historically, one of the oldest is the Oxford Castle which dates from 1071 and was used as a fortress and a prison until 1996. It was also the site of the gallows which lends an eerie feeling to your visit, especially around Halloween. Although the Castle is not completely wheelchair accessible, it has an elevator which allows a wheelchair user to visit many parts including the crypt which is said to be the site of origin for Geoffery of Monmouth’s King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table. Although St. George’s Tower is not accessible, they show a movie of views from the Tower at the bottom of its steps. One of the most interesting exhibits is a strait jacket from the Eighteenth Century. I was intrigued by this piece of history and could not imagine myself being forced into it against my will. I stood in the stockades outside the castle. It was fun as long as it did not lead to me losing my head, as I needed that for my studies!
There are many great museums in Oxford. The Ashmolean has an extensive art collection including an exhibit on the life of Rembrandt. There is also an exhibit entitled A Nice Cup of Tea which uses different teacups to commemorate the arrival in Britain of one of the largest groups of workers from the Caribbean on the Windrush in 1948. This event had a large impact on British immigration and led to questions over the status of immigrants in Britain and, more importantly, who should be considered British. The Ashmolean is also home to Guy Fawkes lantern which was in his possession on the night of November 5, 1605 and was purportedly planned to be used to blow up Parliament. If you are in or around Oxford on November 5th, Guy Fawkes Day, do not miss the huge bonfire celebration in South Park.
Two other museums worth visiting in Oxford are the Museum of Natural History and the Pitt Rivers Museum. Both are in connecting buildings in the center of Oxford and both are completely wheelchair accessible. The Museum of Natural History has an interesting exhibit on Darwinism and evolution and a partial skeleton from the extinct dodo bird. The Pitt Rivers museum began with a 26,000 object private collection donated to Oxford University in 1884 and has grown to over 500,000 strange and curious objects, many representative of British imperial history. You will see such controversial oddities as authentic shrunken heads, sealskin capes, rare religious and cultural artifacts and objects used in rituals for tribal marriages and coming of age ceremonies, and a magnificent collection of masks from around the world. Pitt Rivers was an imperialist and it is not surprising that many of the artifacts he acquired were spoils of colonization. There has been controversy over the appropriateness of displaying objects such as human shrunken heads as spoils of war, especially in the colonialism context. I believe they are part of history and should remain on display with an explanation of how they were acquired and how they are connected with colonization and racism.
Some insider fun: Although many scheduled events have been postponed or cancelled due to Covid-19, in the future, if you are in town for the Halloween or Christmas season, I recommend trying to get a ticket to Christ Church College’s seasonal afternoon teas held in the grand hall used in the Harry Potter films!. Each offers a short, specialized tour of the college, and the atmosphere inside the hall and delicacies do not disappoint. I attended both The Charles Dickens Old Fashioned Christmas tea and the Alice in Wonderland tea. Both were enjoyable, but I highly recommend the Alice in Wonderland tea. The Alice tour was fantastic as the guide knew so much about Lewis Carroll’s stay at Christ Church as a mathematics professor and his interactions with Alice Liddell, the Vice Chancellor’s daughter, said to be the inspiration for the story. The tea table was fantastic. The treats looked like they came right out of the books! Also, Christmas Mass celebrated at Christ Church usually has a celebrity reader. If interested, you can check the website for tickets.
If you are in the Headington section of Oxford, keep an eye out for the Shark House. It used to be a private residence and now is a hotel. There is a hole in the roof with a life-size shark sticking out! It is a bit far out from the center of town but makes for a nice long walk on a sunny day. A great photo op that won’t take a bite out of your budget! Cue the Jaws theme song!
Oxford is full of great pubs, restaurants and shopping. Most older pubs, including The Bear (oldest in Oxford) and Eagle and Child (meeting place of literary Inklings that included J.R.R. Tolkien –it is said he wrote Lord of the Rings here, and C.S. Lewis) have a step to get into and are narrow and close inside. I would recommend going during off hours and bringing along a friend if possible. There are also plenty of more accessible but less historic pubs and restaurants in Oxford in all different price ranges, offering all types of food. The new Westgate Mall on Queen Street has many beautiful stores and restaurants with beautiful rooftop views. It also has a Nandos chicken restaurant (any One Direction fans?). Two of my favorite Oxford restaurants are All Bar One and Brown’s, both accessible and welcoming. All Bar One on High Street has good food and drinks, nice atmosphere, and reasonable prices. Brown’s is a bit more expensive, but their lamb chops are fantastic. The Red Lion is near the theaters and is a great place for meeting up with friends and nearby The White Rabbit pub has great pizza. Both get crowded but have an accessible entrance. For fast food, Leon’s has excellent fish wraps and Itsu’s dumpling soup aare my regular selections.
There are several theaters in Oxford for plays and movies. All are accessible. For productions in the Oxford Playhouse, let them know you use a wheelchair in advance and they will remove a seat to accommodate. In London and Oxford, theaters offer discounted tickets for people with disabilities and their companions. Always call ahead and ask for this discount before ordering online. If traveling with children, look out for Pantomime shows (or Panto)! They are usually clever reenactments of favorite fairytales with some adult humor thrown in. Fun for all ages!
Overall, Oxford is a great place to visit or stay. It is only a short trip (1hr 45 minutes) to London by train. With a two for one train pass bought in advance, you and a regular companion can pay half price. Call ahead to ensure assistance on and off the train at Oxford and connecting stations. The central bus depot in Oxford also offers many bus trips to towns such as Stratford Upon Avon and Bath. Call ahead to make sure your bus is wheelchair accessible.
I am looking forward to returning to Oxford soon. Until then, Wheel on!